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北京西服定做淺談衣服肩部與皮膚的關(guān)系

來源:北京紳凱服裝   瀏覽:29   【字體: 】 發(fā)布日期: 2016-9-21 22:32:21 打印

(1)皮膚的厚度、柔軟度和衣服肩部的運動功能關(guān)于皮膚厚度分布狀況的概略已在前 面的頸部一項中談到。


肩部周圍的皮膚,以肩棱為界線,前面比后面薄,越到前面越柔軟。這就是以胸鎖關(guān) 節(jié)為支點的肩部向前可動性的原由。 肩端部分的皮膚比較厚而有緊緊地包覆肩端圓頭部的感覺。


此肩端部位是在肩部和上肢運動時,牽引衣服、壓迫集中的部位。受壓的肩端皮膚,受衣服的牽引,而向頸側(cè)滑動,起到了減少衣服壓力的作用。這種皮膚功能與下面要講的肩部皮膚的皺紋有關(guān)。


(2)皮膚皺紋和肩部的動作,衣服肩部的運動功能 肩部的皮膚積蓄皺紋中,大致有 兩個流向,一個是沿著領(lǐng)圍線的頸部方向,另一個是逐漸離開的沿著肩端的方向。


從上面看皺紋的流向,無論哪一部分都大致垂直于肩線。作為皮膚皺紋的特性,與皺紋垂直的方向是容易伸展的方向,因此,肩端應(yīng)該是朝點線箭頭所示的頸側(cè)方向收縮。因為肩端是多軸性關(guān)節(jié),可多方向自由運動,所以特定某個方向是困難的。而從 皮膚皺紋來看,這箭頭所示的方向,就是肩部及上肢帶的主要運動方向。


要使服裝肩部完全適應(yīng)于人體肩部的運動,使肩部運動自如,這是十分困難的。這里有兩種方法:一種是把衣服做成完全寬松的,包括整個肩部;另一種是選擇適當(dāng)?shù)牟牧稀⒃O(shè)計紙樣結(jié)構(gòu),研究加工方法,經(jīng)過綜合處理,減輕肩端的阻力,以提高穿著的 功能性。 

(1) general motion function of skin thickness, softness and clothes on the shoulder skin thickness distribution has been in front of the neck in a talk.
The skin around the shoulders, to the shoulder edge as the line, the front than the back thin, the more to the front of the softer. This is the reason for the movement of the shoulder, which is based on the joint of the chest. End of the shoulder part of the skin is thick and tightly coated shoulder end round head feeling.
The shoulder end is in the shoulder and upper limb movement, traction clothes, oppression of the location of the concentrated. Compression of the shoulder end of the skin, by the traction of the clothes, and to the side of the neck slide, played a role in reducing the pressure of clothing. This skin function is related to the wrinkles of the shoulder skin.
(2) the skin wrinkles and shoulder movements, shoulder shoulder function exercise clothes skin wrinkles in the savings of roughly two, to a direction along the neck collar line, another is gradually left along the direction of the shoulder end.
Look at the flow of wrinkles from above, no matter which part is roughly perpendicular to the shoulder line. As the characteristics of the skin wrinkles, and wrinkles perpendicular to the direction is easy to stretch the direction, so the shoulder should be the direction of the neck to the point of the line of the direction of contraction. Because the shoulder end is a multi axis joint, it can move freely in many directions, so it is difficult to be specific in one direction. And from the skin wrinkles, the direction shown by the arrow, is the main direction of movement of the shoulder and upper limb.
It is very difficult to make the garment shoulder fully fit for the movement of the shoulder of the human body, so that it can move freely in the shoulder. There are two kinds of methods: one is to put the clothes completely relaxed, including the entire shoulder; the other is the selection of appropriate materials, design pattern, study the processing method, after comprehensive treatment, relieve shoulder end resistance, in order to improve the function of dress.

 

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