此類領(lǐng)子可以在各種有省道或無省道的原型樣板上進(jìn)行變化，它可以與衣身裁成一片或在駁點(diǎn)線處與衣身縫合。
款A(yù)
圖 #
A 采用前片原型樣板。
B 剪一塊約20 英寸 *30 英寸（50.8CM*76.2CM）的紙。
C 把樣板放在紙的左下邊，畫出樣板的輪廓線。
D 拿開樣板，核對(duì)所有結(jié)構(gòu)線。
E 將肩頸點(diǎn)標(biāo)上A。
F 在腰圍線上從前中心線量出 3英寸（7.6CM）標(biāo)上 B點(diǎn)。
G 從A 到B 連一直線標(biāo)上斜襟線。
H 為了使斜襟線更合適，從胸高點(diǎn)到斜襟線中心連一直線，并延長到紙的邊緣，與斜
襟線交點(diǎn)，標(biāo)上C。
I 從斜襟線 C點(diǎn)向下量取3/4 英寸（1.9CM）作一標(biāo)記點(diǎn)。
J 從紙的邊緣沿線剪向胸高點(diǎn)（如圖所示）。
K 沿著靠近袖窿的腰省線剪向胸高點(diǎn)。
圖2
A 移動(dòng)剪下的部分。使 C 點(diǎn)取斜襟線上的標(biāo)記點(diǎn)吻合，固定，腰省量會(huì)自動(dòng)增大。
B 從B 到A畫一條新的斜襟線，并延長至后領(lǐng)窩弧長的量，標(biāo)上D 點(diǎn)，圖中后領(lǐng)窩長為 3 1/8 英寸（7.9CM），為 12 號(hào)的尺寸。
注意：變化后領(lǐng)部分時(shí)可參考“青果領(lǐng)———窄型”圖 1 中的 I 和 J 步驟及圖 2 的A、B C步驟。
C 在紙樣上設(shè)計(jì)領(lǐng)子的駁點(diǎn)，從原始的領(lǐng)線與前中線交點(diǎn)向下量取 3 英寸（7.6CM）定點(diǎn)，標(biāo)上駁點(diǎn)。
D 設(shè)計(jì)翻折線，從 F 向上量取 1 英寸（2.5CM）作標(biāo)記點(diǎn)。由此向駁點(diǎn)劃順就得到翻折線（虛線）。
E 將領(lǐng)子的駁點(diǎn)，翻折線、后領(lǐng)線、領(lǐng)子后中線、領(lǐng)寬線等在紙的反面上描線并作標(biāo)記。
A 將紙樣的反面沿翻折線到駁點(diǎn)將紙翻折到正面。
B 按所設(shè)計(jì)的后領(lǐng)窩線和駁點(diǎn)畫出領(lǐng)子造型線（粗實(shí)線所示）。
圖 4
A 打開紙樣，在正面描出領(lǐng)子的領(lǐng)寬線，并用鉛筆描出所有的線。
B 需設(shè)計(jì)公主線時(shí)請(qǐng)參考“在前片上設(shè)計(jì)不同的公主線”部分。
C 貼邊寬為 2 1/2 英寸（6.4CM），從肩線到腰線畫一平行于斜襟線的虛線為貼邊線。
D 請(qǐng)參考“沒有領(lǐng)子的駁領(lǐng)”圖 # 和圖 $ 完成紙樣。
款 B
款 B 是表示在不同服裝款式中的領(lǐng)型。
his collar in a variety of prototype dart or dart on the changes, it can be cut into a piece of clothing and body or in line at the point of barge and clothes suture.
A
Figure #
A using the prototype model of the former.
B cut a piece of about 20 inches *30 inches (50.8CM*76.2CM) of paper.
C put the model on the left side of the paper, draw the outline of the model.
D take the model, check all the structural lines.
E points on the shoulder and neck A.
F on the waist line in front of the center line volume of 3 inches (7.6CM) labeled B points.
G from A to B with a straight line marked surplice line.
In order to make H more suitable surplice line, from the bust point to a surplice line center line, and extend to the edge of the paper, and cable
Along the line intersection, mark C.
I from the surplice line C point down from 3/4 inches (1.9CM) as a marker.
J cut from the edge of the paper to the chest high point (as shown in figure).
K along the line near the waist dart armhole cut to the bust point.
Figure 2
A mobile cut part. The C pick surplice line marker with fixed amount will automatically increase the waist.
B from B to A and draw a new surplice line, and extended to the neck after the arc length, D standard, in Figure 3 1/8 long neck, 12 inches (7.9CM) size.
Note: after the change brought part of reference to "narrow shawl collar - type" I in Figure 1 and Figure 2 J steps and A steps, B C.
C in the pattern design of collar barge, from the original collar line and the anterior midline point down from 3 inches (7.6CM) point mark point barge.
D designed to turn the line, from the F up to 1 inches (2.5CM) as a mark point. From this point to the point of the barge will be turned over to the line (dotted line). .
E the collar point of the collar, turning the line, after the collar, collar, the line, collar wide line and so on the back of the paper and make a mark on the line.
A will be the opposite pattern along the fold lines to be folded to the front paper barge.
B according to the design after the neck line and split points collar molding line (shown in bold lines).
Figure 4
A open pattern, in front of trace collar collar width line, and all the lines with a pencil.
B need to design the princess line, please refer to the "in front of the design of the different parts of the princess" section.
C welt width of 2 1/2 inches (6.4CM), to draw a parallel line to the waist line from the shoulder line surplice as welt line.
D please refer to "no collar collar" figure and figure $# complete pattern.
B
Paragraph B is a leader in different clothing styles.
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