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北京工作服訂做淺談弓身體形與服裝設(shè)計紙樣的調(diào)整

來源:北京紳凱服裝   瀏覽:47   【字體: 】 發(fā)布日期: 2016/9/16 17:03:34 打印

的弓身體形的人體側(cè)面曲勢線,就是上半身在背部增加曲率,下半身在腹部增加曲率。


這樣曲勢形態(tài)帶有動勢感、流動感、柔軟感,所以從美術(shù)角度來看,可能比挺直的更具有美的價值。在效果圖和女模特中,喜歡這種類型和姿勢可能也是緣于此吧。


服裝設(shè)計的對象人體,不僅僅是指姿勢,而是指體形。緊身合體的服裝,應(yīng)采用自然地順著弓身體形曲勢的紙樣。


1)弓身體形與標(biāo)準(zhǔn)體形的差異 先來研究一下弓身體形與標(biāo)準(zhǔn)體形〔弓身體形與反身體形的中間形態(tài)〕的不同之處。


與標(biāo)準(zhǔn)體形相比,連接線方向變成 方向,連接線方向變成 方向,斜率增大,接近。結(jié)果,弓身體形胸腹部的長度變短成 胸部彎曲量也減少,呈扁平化。


背面相反,背部 的長度(背長)變成 成為長度變長、曲率增加、背寬增加。臀部,由于后面臀溝下垂,臀溝和 臀底的連接線 ,稍有向上的傾向。


弓身體形的整體特征是頸部前傾,手臂根靠前,臀部下沉、腹部前突。


這些變化在紙樣中必須反映出來。


2)紙樣的調(diào)整紙樣前后片的調(diào)整與體形的變化有著密切的關(guān)系。紙樣 的右側(cè)所示,虛線是標(biāo)準(zhǔn)體形,實線表示弓身體形。


具體紙樣如下:


(1)前中心長和后中心長,與人體領(lǐng)圍線前傾相對應(yīng),紙樣前中心 變短,后中心  變長。


(2)因手臂根位置移向胸側(cè),紙樣的袖窿也前移,胸寬內(nèi)挖,背寬變寬。

(3)胸部因扁平,腋下省道改小,背部因圓勢增加,設(shè)置肩省。

(4)下擺向前中心方向移動,這樣更易貼合弓身體形。

(5)因臀部扁平而下垂,下半身紙樣后片腰部下移,后片橫襠下挖,臀寬變窄。后片整體呈所謂立起來的形狀。

(6)因臀部的屈量有減少的傾向,所以腰部后省改小。

 

Body shape of the body side curve of the body curve, that is, the upper body in the back of the increase in the curvature of the lower body in the abdomen to increase the curvature.
This song form with a sense of momentum and potential movement and soft feeling, so from the point of view of art, may have better value than straight. In the effect diagram and female models, like this type and posture may also be due to this bar.
Clothing design of the object of the human body, not just refers to the position, but refers to the body. Tight fit clothing, should be used naturally along the bow shape curved potential pattern.
1) the difference between the body shape and the standard of the bow to study the difference between the bow body and the standard body shape and the middle shape of the body.
Compared with the standard form, the direction of the connecting line becomes the direction, the direction of the connecting line becomes the direction, the slope increases, and the direction of the connection is close to the standard. As a result, the length of the bow body, the length of the chest and abdomen becomes shorter and the volume of the chest is reduced, and the body is flattened.
Back on the contrary, the back length (back length) becomes longer and longer, the curvature increases, and the back width increases. Hips, due to the back of the hip ditch drop, anal groove and the bottom of the connection line, a slight upward tendency.
The overall characteristics of bow shape is the neck forward, arm root front, buttocks, abdomen before the sudden sinking.
These changes must be reflected in the pattern of.
2) there is a close relationship between the changes and the shape adjustment pattern before and after the film pattern. The pattern shown on the right side, the dotted line is the standard figure, the solid line shows the bow body shape.
The specific pattern is as follows:
(1) before and after the center center long long, body and neck lines forward corresponding pattern, before the center becomes shorter, after the center of variable length.
(2) because of arm root position toward the chest side pattern armhole forward, chest wide digging, back width.
(3) for flat chest, underarm dart back to small, due to the increase of round potential, setting the shoulder dart.
(4) the center forward hem direction, it's easier to fit the arch shaped body.
(5) due to the hips flat drooping, lower body pattern piece after piece waist down, cross crotch dig, hip width narrowing. The whole piece is called the shape of the post.
(6) due to the reduction of the hip flexor tendency, so the waist after the province to change the small.

 

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